Picture hanging drives people absolutely bonkers. I’ve watched friends spend entire afternoons wrestling with wonky frames, stepping back & forth like they’re choreographing some bizarre dance. The measuring tape comes out, the spirit level appears, and somehow — despite all this preparation — the bloody thing still ends up crooked.
But here’s what I’ve learned after years of hanging artwork (and calling in professionals when I’ve made a right mess): there are genuinely simple methods that work every single time. You don’t need fancy gadgets or engineering qualifications. Just the right approach & a bit of patience.
Understanding Picture Hanging Hardware
Before we get into the actual hanging process, let’s talk about what you’re working with. Most pictures come with either D-rings, sawtooth hangers, or wire hanging systems. Each behaves differently on your wall.
D-rings are brilliant because they’re predictable. Mount them at the same height on both sides of your frame, and you’ve got consistent hanging points. Sawtooth hangers? They’re convenient but can be tricky — that serrated edge doesn’t always grip the nail in the same spot.
Wire systems are where things get interesting. The wire creates a natural centre point when it hangs, but it also shifts slightly depending on tension. I’ve seen people get frustrated because they measure perfectly, yet the picture still sits askew. The wire’s doing what wire does — finding its own equilibrium.
The Paper Template Method
This is hands down the most reliable technique I know. Take a piece of paper (newspaper works perfectly) & place it behind your picture frame. Trace around the frame, then mark where the hanging hardware sits.
Cut out your paper template and hold it against the wall exactly where you want the picture. Use a pencil to mark through the paper where your nails or screws need to go. Remove the template, install your fixings, and hang the picture.
Why does this work so brilliantly? You’re essentially creating a 1:1 map of your picture’s hanging points. No measuring between D-rings, no guessing about wire tension. Just direct transfer from frame to wall.
The only downside? It feels almost too simple. People assume there must be some complicated method involving laser levels and mathematical calculations. Sometimes the easiest solutions are genuinely the best ones.
Getting Your Measurements Right
Measuring sounds straightforward until you’re actually doing it. Most people measure from the top of the frame to the hanging point, but that’s not always helpful when you’re working with wire systems.
For wire hangers, pull the wire taut as if a nail were supporting it, then measure from the frame’s top edge to where the wire sits. This gives you the actual hanging distance, not the theoretical one.
With D-rings or sawtooth hangers, measure from the frame’s top to the hardware centre. Write this measurement down — I cannot tell you how many times I’ve measured something, walked to another room, and completely forgotten the number.
Also, consider your picture’s final position relative to furniture & light switches. The standard height recommendation is 57-60 inches from floor to picture centre, but rules are made for breaking. What looks right in your space matters more than arbitrary measurements.
Wall Preparation and Fixing Selection
Your wall type completely changes the hanging game. Plasterboard needs different fixings than solid brick or stone walls. Most UK homes have plasterboard walls with timber studs, so you’ll likely need wall plugs or cavity fixings.
For lightweight pictures (under 2kg), simple picture hooks or small nails work fine. Medium weight pieces need proper wall plugs & screws. Heavy artwork — anything over 10kg — really should hit timber studs or use specialist heavy-duty fixings.
I learned this the hard way when a large mirror decided to relocate itself from wall to floor at 3am. The crash was spectacular, and the damage to both wall & mirror was entirely avoidable with proper fixings.
Always check what’s behind your wall before drilling. A stud finder costs about £15 and saves enormous headaches. Plus, you’ll use it for other projects once you’ve got it.
The String and Level Technique
This method works particularly well for hanging multiple pictures in a row. Run a horizontal string line across your wall at the desired height, using a spirit level to ensure it’s perfectly straight.
Mark your hanging points along this line, spacing them according to your pictures’ requirements. The string gives you a consistent reference point that’s much easier to see than pencil marks on the wall.
I’ve used this approach for gallery walls & picture sequences. It takes about five minutes to set up the string, but it eliminates all the back-and-forth checking that usually happens when hanging multiple pieces.
Remove the string once you’ve marked all positions. Install your fixings, then hang each picture knowing they’ll all sit at exactly the same height.
Dealing with Difficult Pictures
Some pictures just don’t want to hang straight, no matter what you do. Heavy frames with narrow wire hangers are notorious troublemakers. The wire stretches under weight, shifting the picture’s position.
For these awkward pieces, consider switching to D-rings or French cleats. D-rings distribute weight more evenly and eliminate wire stretch. French cleats are overkill for most domestic situations, but they’re absolutely bombproof for heavy or valuable artwork.
Another trick: if you’ve got a picture that keeps shifting, tiny felt pads stuck to the frame’s bottom corners can help. They create just enough friction against the wall to prevent sliding.
Sometimes the problem isn’t your hanging technique — it’s the frame itself. Warped or damaged frames never hang properly, regardless of your method. I’ve spent ages trying to hang pictures straight before realising the frame was twisted.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The biggest error I see people make is rushing the marking stage. They’ll hold a picture against the wall, try to mark hanging points by reaching around the frame, and inevitably end up with wonky marks.
Another classic mistake: not accounting for picture wire stretch. Wire hangs differently when supporting weight compared to when it’s slack. Always test how the wire sits under load before marking your wall positions.
People also tend to use fixings that are too small. Better to over-specify your wall plugs & screws than have pictures falling down later. The cost difference between adequate & generous fixings is negligible.
And please, check your spirit level before trusting it completely. I’ve got a cheap level that’s slightly off — it’s caught me out more than once. A wonky spirit level makes everything else wonky too.
Professional Tips for Tricky Situations
Textured walls can make picture hanging more challenging. Artex or heavy wallpaper textures mean your spirit level might not sit flush against the wall surface. In these situations, use longer levels that bridge across texture variations.
For very valuable or heavy pictures, don’t hesitate to call professionals. Good picture hanging specialists have insurance, proper tools, and experience with difficult installations. The cost is usually reasonable compared to potential damage from amateur mistakes.
If you’re hanging pictures on freshly plastered walls, be extra careful with fixing selection. New plaster can be softer than expected, and standard wall plugs might not grip properly.
Multiple picture arrangements need planning. Sketch your layout on paper first, or cut paper templates for each picture & arrange them on the floor. This saves countless holes in your wall from trial & error positioning.
The Bottom Line
Hanging pictures straight isn’t rocket science, but it does reward careful preparation. The paper template method works reliably for single pictures, while string lines handle multiple pieces beautifully.
Take time to choose appropriate fixings for your wall type & picture weight. Mark positions carefully, double-check measurements, and don’t rush the process.
Most importantly, accept that some pictures are just difficult. If you’re struggling with valuable artwork or particularly heavy pieces, professional help is worth considering. A specialist service might cost £50-100, but that’s nothing compared to damaged walls or broken frames.
Perfect picture hanging is absolutely achievable — you just need the right approach & patience to execute it properly.